Several weeks ago I promised to offer a limited number of samples of fragrance which was born from a collaboration between perfumer Dominique Ropion and photographer Terry Richardson. I apologize for the delay. Let’s say it’s not easy to bring back a fragrance which is no longer in production… but it’s coming. Thanks for your patience!
A few weeks ago I mishandled a subject in my post and decided to delete it with the comments. Among the deleted comments there was one asking about how to become a perfumer. Obviously there is not much information out there…
Well, anyone can become a self-proclaimed perfumer since there’s no rule to be a self-proclaimed perfumer, but being a “major league player” in perfumery means working with one of the legitimate houses that dominates the fragrance market. Most people don’t know how to enter one of these houses as a perfumer or as a future perfumer. Is it part of the secrecy of the industry? Maybe so.
I may post something related to the “how to” topic in the future, but let me tell you why it is so obscure. It’s quite simple – the industry doesn’t need to publicize the “how to” since the openings for new perfumers are extremely limited. Each house (fragrance supplier) has only one to three openings per year, and there are enough sources to recruit great young talents already.
So, where do they look for the potential noses? ISIPCA is the most known place to look for future perfumers, but there are several other places. I’ll tell you more about it some other time…
Gee, Clement and Laurent are busier than ever (new launches are showing no sign of slowing down…), and I don’t even get to speak to them these days 🙁 But don’t worry, Katie and Marina, I received messages from both perfumers yesterday, and the mods are ready. All I got to do is to move my lazy xxx and pick them up. So, dear readers of this blog, a little more patience please. As we wait, Made by Blog will offer a special scent, and I hope there will be enough for everyone. But first read the following and check out the video before you jump to the opportunity.
I liked the early ad campaigns for Sisley (the Italian casual fashion, not Sisley Paris) very much. Terry Richardson’s photos ‘smelt’, I mean very strongly. They were raw and powerful, but at the same time undeniably sexy. Among thousands of successful photographers, Terry Richardson carved out the most unique style of fashion photography of our time. Richardson’s influence on commercial photography is similar to Warhol’s influence on Art. American culture has been good at producing iconoclastic artists who walk the fine line between art and commerce. I don’t know if perfumery or the fragrance industry could simply be put into this context, but I look forward to someone like Terry Richardson appearing in the world of fragrance and changing the way American fragrances are.
In 2003, Terry Richardson and Dominique Ropion collaborated on a scent called “WET” for Visionaire. The image which inspired the perfumer was Richardson’s photo of a woman’s breasts covered with sperm. Made by Blog will offer the samples of this unique collaboration.
These are called “blotters” and used for drawing lots. They are also used to write memos or used as bookmarks. (Chandler Burr calls them “Scent Strip”s and uses each piece of paper to smell a scent… interesting.) Continue Reading
“Je reviens en trois jours, ne te laves pas!”
The name of the classic perfume by the house of Worth (Je Reviens, 1932) was based on a letter sent by Napoleon to Josephine. A great classic, but the scent apparently has nothing to do with the natural odor of the empress. Now, there’s a new project inspired by this famous note to recreate Josephine’s odor. I don’t know much about it but trying to figure out who’s going to create the scent. The perfumer has to be excellent in classic French perfumery, that’s for sure. What else? Well, this is the kind of idea that makes me (=straight, dirty minded) wild, and I would like the perfumer to have the same degree of excitement. So, if I’m allowed to select the candidates, they are Dominique Ropion (IFF), Maurice Roucel (Symrise), Alberto Morillas (Firmenich).
I will follow up with more detailed information later.
Francis Kurkdjian speaks with Melissa Block, the host of NPR’s All Things Considered, about Chateau de Versailles’ recreation of Marie Antoinette’s scent. (an article on December 22, 2006)
NPR’s story: Straight from Versailles, Marie Antoinette’s Scent
Hmmm… not a bad idea. I just wish it was done with style.
www.vivaeros.com (warning: you probably don’t want to visit the website.)