Scent - Page 8

Correction and Addition

I am probably was wrong about the news on Takasago yesterday. It might be It’s Firmenich. Many rumors are circulating in the secretive industry. It’s simply fun to speculate on the rumors. The Givaudan kingdom is in turmoil (this is almost certain), and what I’m hearing seems to be the beginning of a bigger story.

Firmenich may be the one laughing in the end, but many people there, including Jacques Cavallier and Annick Menardo, must have been in tears to see Thierry Wasser leave Firmenich earlier this week.

Thierry, Google your name. This is for you.

Thierry Wasser
Thierry Wasser
Thierry Wasser



さて、先に述べたようにフィルメニッヒの調香師ティエリー ワッサー(Thierry Wasser)が、ゲラン(Guerlain)の調香師、つまりあのジャン ポール・ゲランの後任になるというニュースには驚かされました。ゲランが正式な発表をするまでにはまだ時間があるので、詳しい話はひかえておきますが、1年程前にLVMH社が(ゲランの親会社)がティエリーにアプローチしたという話を聞いていましたから、かなり慎重な話し合いが進められたものと思われます。ティエリーのパワフルで飛び切りイカした調香のスタイルを思うと、ゲランの今後が楽しみで仕方がありません。

Damn, I Was Right!

Yo, Thierry!

I knew it, I knew it, I knew it!!

Do you remember what I predicted 3 years ago?

… man, you’re the best.

A huge congratulations !!!


(what a day…)


3年程前にフィルメニッヒ(Firmenich)の調香師ティエリー ワッサー(Thierry Wasser)に「お前は、そのうちゲラン(Guerlain)の調香師になるよ。」と言って茶化したことがありました。いやぁ、本当のことになってしまいました。6月の初旬に正式に発表されるはずです。

Perfumers and Model in the Studio

There is a famous woodcut by Dürer called “Artist and Model in the Studio.”

I am working on a series of prints portraying the relationship between perfumers and a skin model which will be a part of my new project.



Is perfumery art?

I noticed that I haven’t posted about perfume for a while. I spent most of the time thinking about a new project related to perfumers and perfumery this week and felt comfortable posting something related.

Last weekend my two sons had an annual play date with Les Christophs (Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz) at home, and I had an opportunity to speak with perfumer Christophe Laudamiel on various subjects including art and design. Laudamiel is one of the few perfumers (if not only) who is trying to think perfumery outside the realm of commercial perfumery or a mere scent making. The most interesting discussion with him was on the possibility for the perfumery to be recognized as art.

Perfumery is not art in today’s context. For example, we cannot speak about perfumery as we speak about contemporary art. Perfumery is still like 18th or 19th century art. As Laudamiel pointed out to me, I too believe that finding the answer to this issue will ultimately take the commercial perfumery to the next level.

I also found an interesting article by chance addressing a similar issue. Here is the link where you can download the article.

Vodka of the Year

The new campaign by Belvedere Vodka (originally from Poland) owned by LVMH is called “Luxury Reborn.” The celebrities in the campaign are Terry Richardson, Vincent Gallo and RZA. As you can see from the casts in the commercial, this is a niche campaign, and people who don’t get it are unlikely to recognize the campaign.

Thierry Wasser

Thierry Wasser

Thierry Wasser

If you can relate to the short commercial, it’s worth checking out the interview of Vincent Gallo at the Belvedere Vodka’s website. Unfortunately the entire site is Flash, and the navigations is not so good. The interview can be found where it says DISCOVER LUXURY REBORN/THE CAMPAIGN BEHIND THE SCENE after the splash page.

And for those who love perfumes – Sabina Belli, the woman who is interviewing Vincent Gallo, was Dior’s International Marketing Director for Fragrance, Cosmetics and Skincare a few years ago. According to perfumer Thierry Wasser, he was able to complete the scent of Dior Addict in just two and a half months because of Sabina Belli’s inspiring description of what she wanted for the fragrance.

Sophia ’93

“Perfumers have signatures,” Mrs. Grojsman said. “You can pick up a fragrance and know who the perfumer is by the way certain ingredients are put together. I’m known for floral accords, bottoms and cleavage.” Noses talk that way. Translation: the bottom note is the scent on the skin several hours after application. There is, however, no bottom without a top — a note that lasts a couple of minutes after perfume is put on — and a middle. Without this layering, heaven forbid, a scent could turn out to be what Mrs. Grojsman called “a bottomless pit of infinity or nondescript.” Cleavage is the “sensual” part of the fragrance.

From a New York Times article in February 1993

branding the future


I haven’t been to Colette for a while, and a recent post in 1000fragrances certainly made me want to check out the store. It’s not surprising to hear that this hip store in Paris has done a good job of building its olfactive identity. After all this is the store in Paris run by an innovative trendsetter ‘sarah’.

Olfactive branding is a relatively new area in the fragrance business… but I see two problems here.

The first issue is whether to scent a space or to launch an olfactive campaign, it doesn’t require tons of fragrance oil to achieve these goals. This is not really a good business for the suppliers. To profit from this new trend the suppliers will need to change their old-fashioned billing system which has been spoiling their clients for many years and be prepared for a new business form. Not an easy thing to do.

Solving the second issue could be even more difficult. Today’s big companies are like young people. They want to be cool. However both fragrance business and its market are uncool, and worst of all, this is contagious – an example: Tom Ford used to be cool, and Estee Lauder wanted to borrow some of his leftover aura. In the beginning of Lauder-Ford alliance, some people in the industry made fun of one of the big bosses at Lauder who was trying to dress like Tom Ford. How does the relationship look today? I think Tom blended in with Estee Lauder so nicely that it’s hard to remember that he had been undeniably cool in the ’90s… will it be possible to change this uncool environment into a cool one, and how? That I don’t know yet.