Scent - Page 9

Who’s Who – Perfumer Directory

There’s one thing I have been thinking about for a while to make perfumers’ identities more visible. The idea came up as I began to hear some perfumers being unhappy only to find their names in a motley list of perfumers in the web. I think it’s not a bad idea to have a reliable source to find information on perfumers, I mean an orgnized list of perfumers at recognized houses with their bios and photos.

Some details:
– sort the list by house (Givaudan, IFF, Firmenich…), by category (fine fragrance, beauty care, household…), and by location (New York, Paris…)
– have a photo (nice ones) and a bio (less corporate, more personal) of each perfumer
– update information every year (wins, transfers…)
– include perfumers from Beauty Care and Toiletries (they are equally important assets for each house)
– list only the notable wins of each perfumer or list only what each perfumer is proud of

The information is obtainable… but who is going to put the time and money for it? This is clearly not my job. So, I suggested Perfumer & Flavorist to think about making a directory website of perfumers. The editor seemed keen on the idea, and I hope something will come out from them.

Ao Dai(調香師 ロク・ドング)

気鋭の若手パフューマー、ロク・ドングについて述べてみました。

*****

There is something striking about the image below…

It reminds me of a fragrance that perfumer Loc Dong was working on for S-Perfume® more than a year ago. You may not have heard about Loc Dong yet, but his recent achievement is compared to that of Jacques Cavallier when L’Eau d’Issey was created. Naturally, other suppliers are now waiting for a chance to lure Loc from IFF.

I have a sweet spot for Loc Dong for many reasons, but the biggest reason is simply because he’s a god damn Asian. Loc often said to me, “I want women to feel beautiful when they wear my fragrance.” His simple statement is very powerful, just like this stunning beauty in a white ao dai.

So, why didn’t we finish the fragrance? Well, I thought his great mods should fall into the hands of L’Oreal or P&G one day, and not in mine. Loc Dong’s fragrances should be appreciated by as many women as possible, and they are simply not meant for niche markets.

aodai.jpg

via erikg.codepoet.no

Perfumer & Flavorist magazine

Off

An article in the May issue of Perfumer & Flavorist discusses what it means to be a perfumer today. The article is loaded with revealing quotes from respected figures in the industry like Carlos Benaim, Jean Guichard, Frederic Malle and more. The full article is available for purchase here. Highly recommended for beauty writers and avid consumers of perfumes.

A Story from 2001

mugler_cologne.jpgThis is a bit of an old story now.

It was supposed to be called “Cologne S”…

True or not, I don’t know, but once heard that the designer and the perfumer were overjoyed about the concept of the scent – Shower After Sex. Unfortunately the real shower-after-sex effect can only be experienced from the juice straight out of the lab, not the one from the factory. During the mature(oil)-macerate(solution)-chill-filter process the elusive “molecule S” seems to fade away. By the time the product reaches the store shelf the shock value is hardly there… at least for most people’s noses.

“S” was supposed to imply semen, shower, and soap. Cologne S… this great name also has evaporated during the maceration process.
 

WET

Several weeks ago I promised to offer a limited number of samples of fragrance which was born from a collaboration between perfumer Dominique Ropion and photographer Terry Richardson. I apologize for the delay. Let’s say it’s not easy to bring back a fragrance which is no longer in production… but it’s coming. Thanks for your patience!

How to become a perfumer

A few weeks ago I mishandled a subject in my post and decided to delete it with the comments. Among the deleted comments there was one asking about how to become a perfumer. Obviously there is not much information out there…

Well, anyone can become a self-proclaimed perfumer since there’s no rule to be a self-proclaimed perfumer, but being a “major league player” in perfumery means working with one of the legitimate houses that dominates the fragrance market. Most people don’t know how to enter one of these houses as a perfumer or as a future perfumer. Is it part of the secrecy of the industry? Maybe so.

I may post something related to the “how to” topic in the future, but let me tell you why it is so obscure. It’s quite simple – the industry doesn’t need to publicize the “how to” since the openings for new perfumers are extremely limited. Each house (fragrance supplier) has only one to three openings per year, and there are enough sources to recruit great young talents already.

So, where do they look for the potential noses? ISIPCA is the most known place to look for future perfumers, but there are several other places. I’ll tell you more about it some other time…

Terry, Not Thierry

Gee, Clement and Laurent are busier than ever (new launches are showing no sign of slowing down…), and I don’t even get to speak to them these days :( But don’t worry, Katie and Marina, I received messages from both perfumers yesterday, and the mods are ready. All I got to do is to move my lazy xxx and pick them up. So, dear readers of this blog, a little more patience please. As we wait, Made by Blog will offer a special scent, and I hope there will be enough for everyone. But first read the following and check out the video before you jump to the opportunity.

I liked the early ad campaigns for Sisley (the Italian casual fashion, not Sisley Paris) very much. Terry Richardson’s photos ‘smelt’, I mean very strongly. They were raw and powerful, but at the same time undeniably sexy. Among thousands of successful photographers, Terry Richardson carved out the most unique style of fashion photography of our time. Richardson’s influence on commercial photography is similar to Warhol’s influence on Art. American culture has been good at producing iconoclastic artists who walk the fine line between art and commerce. I don’t know if perfumery or the fragrance industry could simply be put into this context, but I look forward to someone like Terry Richardson appearing in the world of fragrance and changing the way American fragrances are.

In 2003, Terry Richardson and Dominique Ropion collaborated on a scent called “WET” for Visionaire. The image which inspired the perfumer was Richardson’s photo of a woman’s breasts covered with sperm. Made by Blog will offer the samples of this unique collaboration.

Nobi