WWDIS Blog - Page 103

In Response to a Question from Sariah

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© What We Do Is Secret

There is a question from Sariah which I want to answer in this post. This is the same question I had when I first stumbled in the fragrance industry – why are the industry’s most talented and creative forces hidden behind the curtain?

There are mainly two different types of players in the fragrance industry: the clients (i.e. L’Oreal, Estee Lauder, Dior, Calvin Klein, and so many more) and the suppliers (i.e. Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and a few more).

Now, the relationship between these two is not like the one between a fashion designer and his client. If a rich woman orders an haute couture dress from Giorgio Armani Prive, the dress will be saying “I’m Armani!” to the world. Everyone would know Armani’s creativity is woven into the fabric.

Although the word “supplier” doesn’t imply a serious act of creation, these few major suppliers in the fragrance industry are the true source of creativity. Their scientists develop new molecules, and their perfumers create scents. Things become complicated since their clients are supposed to be the creator of fragrances in the eyes of the consumers. There is another factor which contributes to the complication – there is only a limited number of suppliers that can handle the demands of these clients. As a result, a perfumer will often be working simultaneously for several clients who are competitors. Imagine if the perfumer has a great formula which may set a new trend, and all his clients want it for their new fragrances…

The perfumers are very much aware of their circumstances and mission. Jacques Cavallier was once quoted as saying, “Our profession is based on the notion of secrecy. We are the temple guardians.”

a change in the tide

Several months ago I heard that Givaudan was up to something really big. I have been wondering about it since…

Givaudan bought out Quest International today.  more »

The competition between the Big Three will be more interesting than ever, but I hope IFF will not rush to buy a struggling company like Symrise which probably will be for sale soon.

A question for Clement

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Recently, there was a very good question for Clement which made us think about the current trend in perfumery…

It’s not really relevant to the interview, but I’m curious what it is like to work with other perfumers on a particular fragrance. I’d imagine that there’s a lot of discussion and such, but was wondering if they run off and make mods and then meet up and decide what direction they like best, back and forth, until it’s finished? And who makes the decision to have multiple perfumers work on a fragrance? Is that more or less common than having a single perfumer?

Kuri

And, here is Clement’s answer to the question.

Hi Kuri,

Thanks for your question.

More and more fragrances on the market today are the result of teamwork.

So, why has it become like this over the last several years?
– Short deadlines: we often have to make new mods in one day.
– So many briefs to work on at the same time: each perfumer needs to prioritize his projects. Some projects will need other perfumer’s help to be finished in time.
– Sometimes we get stuck in a formula. The involvement of another perfumer could help take a fresh look at it.
– There are often requests from our clients or the management to have such and such perfumers work together.

When we work together on one project there are a lot of discussions not just between us but also with the evaluator and the client. Many back-and-forths usually happen.

Clement

Good answers, no?

Stock

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Things related to finances are the farthest thing from my mind. Therefore, I have no idea why IFF’s stock keeps going up while the rest of the industry is generally sluggish. Is it because they are hiding the best young perfumers? But then, Wall Street wouldn’t know about such a thing…

As the stock started to rise in the end of July, everybody at IFF started to look overloaded with tasks. I remember both Clement and Laurent didn’t take long vacations last summer as French people normally would.

This also reminds me of another thing I should mention here. Made by Blog has become possible thanks to Mr. Nicolas Mirzayantz who let Clement and Laurent use their work hours for this project. There are about a few hundred major fragrance launches every year and probably less than hundred perfumers in the world who are capable of handling these projects. So the workload of each IFF perfumer is huge and it’s not an easy thing for the group president to allow two of the busiest perfumers to spare their time for something that has no financial objectives.

Thanks, Nicolas!

Nobi

New Mods

A quick note on the latest mods: Both Marina and Katie has just received their new mods from the two perfumers. It may take a few more weeks to hear from the two ladies on their new fragrances, but the samples of their new mods are now available online.

Molecular Love, Portraits

iffperfumers.jpgMolecular Love: March of Perfume Posse sent me a message a few weeks ago, and it has been bothering me. Well, she had some great points in her message which made me think to do something about it…

Portraits: I love portraits whether it’s photography, painting or sculpture. I’m thinking about showing the great black and white photos of all 34 fine fragrance and beauty care perfumers at IFF on the website. It will probably be the first time for any major fragrance houses to show their most valuable assets to the public. [by Nobi]

The Prize for Kuri

arles.jpgBefore my vacation last summer we had left a quiz. We had asked what was Clement’s favorite music genre. Kuri who answered Reggae became the winner of the quiz, and we promised to send her one of the scents from the huge IFF library which we hoped she would fall in love with. We needed to spend some time to choose a perfect scent for Kuri among the thousands of scents in the library. Finally, we have found something and are sending it to her. It took a long time but was a fun process! [by Nobi]

To choose the prize, we asked Kuri for some information. Below is the excerpts from her messages.

In her first message Kuri wrote:

My favorite notes are almond, gardenia, and black tea. I really love straightforward smelling almond scented lotions like Caswell-Massey and Crawford & Williams, and the smell of Lush’s Snowcake soap.

I’m still searching but perfumes I like include:
Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose
The Body Shop Indian Gardenia
Emanuel Ungaro Desnuda

I find interesting but wouldn’t wear:
Bulgari Omnia

I don’t like:
most Chanel perfumes that I’ve tried; they smell like old school perfumes (Chanel Chance is boring)
l’Eau d’Issey; I think the ozone note bothers me, it smells empty
Anna Sui Secret Wish; tires my nose out although I like it to begin with
Lanvin Eclat d’Arpege; liked for a while but in the end it also tires my nose out
Bulgari Eau Perfumee
most of the Shiseido perfumes I have tried are interesting but too heavy – Saso, Chant du Coeur, Jeanne Arthes Sultane
most Guerlains haven’t worked for me either

Later she added:

Current explorations:

Fragonard Eau du Bonheur solid perfume: cheerful, bright, and fun. I really like it and it’s fun to put on (1 1/2 weeks so far). I have a feeling that the solid perfume consists only of the top notes, though. It’s got a lot of oomph and impact but doesn’t feel heavy at all. I probably really like citrus. Essential Oils of Portland’s Grapefruit essential oil smells addictive. So does Muji’s fragrance hair essence (grapefruit and orange?). I don’t know if I want to smell like that, but I could breathe in the scent all day long.

4711 Original Cologne; rather addictive, but doesn’t last at all. At first the spice(?) was a bit surprising, but I soon needed a hit more than once a day. The citrus doesn’t have the same impact as in Eau du Bonheur.

Jean Patou Sublime; I have an old sample, so it’s probably gone a bit off, but I rather like this. It’s pretty subtle, but elegant and pretty and still interesting. In contrast, I re-tried Estee Lauder Beyond Paradise and found it rather boring. It’s very nice and I can totally see why it would be popular, but it was too refined and restrained.

CK Summer was better the second time I tried it. I got a bit of a tea note this time. Rather nice.

In her most recent message Kuri states:

I discovered I don’t like Caswell-Massey’s almond that much. It’s nice but too sweet for my taste.

Some fragrances were not at IFF, so we searched for them at stores. Veronique Ferval, the Director of Fragrance Development at IFF, has tested all the fragrances mentioned in Kuri’s messages and chose one of the newest addition to the library which was created by Laurent Le Guernec.

Since Ms. Ferval has enjoyed the selection process so much she wanted to give recommendations on fragrances on the market that Kuri should check out, too. Here is her message to Kuri.

Dear Kuri,

Congratulations on winning the quiz !

It was a pleasure searching the right scents for you to try from thousands of great products available on the market.

From widely available fragrances I would recommend the followings:

Fracas by Piguet … it’s a classic if you like white flowers like gardenias and tuberoses. It’s not only an amazing floral but also has a very skin like sensual back, musky and slightly animal…

Eau Parfumee Au The Rouge by Bulgari … this addictive red tea could also be a black tea to me with it’s slightly smoky dimension and a luscious “cooked berry” note, like a blackberry. Love it !

Castelbajac from Castelbajac … an edible almond. quite monolithic but powerful. Brings back the memory of green almond from a French glue called “colle blanche.”

Farnesiana from Caron … another classic. Almond-ish, heliotrope, wrapped in a classic floralcy between orange flower and violet. Addictively feminine. Only at Caron stores. One of my old time favorites.

Code Donna from Armani … not exactly what you are hoping in terms of
ingredients but close in terms of sensations. Tuberose and almond have very feminine comfortable “white” voluptuous sensations to me, and tea is an easy fresh qualitative appeal. Code Donna is an extremely natural orange flower on a bed of warm, light edible vanilla and musks (like a “fougasse” : famous French pastries) with a crisp bright top.

Now, for your prize, we are sending you a beautiful gardenia, wrapped with an intimate almond accord and with a subliminally addictive background reminiscent of the Madeleine cookie. The top is more like a bergamot tea…. Enjoy !!!!

V e r o n i q u e F e r v a l
Director of Fragrance Development
International Flavors & Fragrances

Oh, and one last thing. Kuri will be posting her review on the scent she receives in her own blog some time in the future. We’ll let you know.

An Encounter

Nagaya.jpgA slamming sound followed by a loud, angry voice broke the silence of the night. I turned my head towards the voice. A man in a white shirt holding a thick black binder was about to give another blow to the young man in a construction worker’s uniform and a hard hat. The furious man wasn’t big or tall but had a threatening presence complemented by his thick voice and a strong Osaka accent. Suddenly he turned and approached me. “Are you Fura-san (my pseudonym used in the ’80s)? I’m Tadao Ando.” He politely bowed once and looked at the objects spread all over the empty new building which had been designed by this renowned architect. “They’re beautiful… look like surfboards. Do you surf?”

This was how I first met Tadao Ando in 1984. A month after I had graduated from Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music I was commissioned to design the interior of Ando’s new building in the center of Osaka. Strangely enough, Ando who had been known as the most perfectionist of all architects in the world didn’t bother to meet the young unknown sculptor before giving the opportunity to design the interior of his new building. He had only seen some schematics and a model before the actual sculptural fixtures arrived at Osaka from Tokyo.

Many things I had heard about Tadao Ando was unusual for what one would expect from an architect: the only selftaught architect from Japan to have received worldwide acclaim, a former pro boxer who had fought all over in Asia, an architect who was feared by construction workers, a boss who threw an ashtray to his staffs with master degrees when upset, the architect who almost punched Dr. Peter Eisenman… above all, the most unexpected was his architecture. How would a man with such temper possibly create buildings with such serenity and awe?

Like his twin brother whom he didn’t grow up with under the same roof (Ando was raised by his grandparents), Tadao Ando started to fight professionally when other kids of his age were going to colleges. Later when his brother started graphic design he wanted to do something similar, too. During their early 20’s, the brothers designed most of the night clubs owned by Yamaguchi-gumi, the most powerful crime family (or better known as Yakuzas) in Japanese history. Then Ando gradually picked up small architecture projects neglected by aspiring architects with master degrees. He executed each project with uncompromising attention, even to the tiniest details. Most amazingly this young boxer had an incomparable aesthetic that most Japanese architects at that time couldn’t match. His breakthrough came with the smallest architecture with the smallest budget. The small row house in Sumiyoshi built in 1976 (Azuma House) earned the 34 year old Ando a world-wide recognition.

The following day of my encounter with Tadao Ando I visited his firm. He appeared somehow shy, but his extraordinary willpower could be felt in the air. We spoke about sculpture and architecture. Unfortunately I don’t remember much except his few remarks which has stuck in my mind over the years. One was, “An architecture always needs to be big enough to contain a person, but size is not a parameter in sculpture. A one centimeter sculpture could become a masterpiece.” There was another one, “When I have to build something on a tiny land, I feel like in the square jungle. A small project becomes a life or death matter.” Ando was a genius at bringing out so much out of a small space. He also told me that the life of a building would start after it was built, and he had to take care of the building as long as it stayed. And because of that he wouldn’t want to accept too many projects outside of Osaka.

Today clients and admirers of Tadao Ando include the most powerful figures in various fields of design, Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Rolf Fehlbaum (Vitra), just to name few. The scale and budget of each project is often infinite, and the design has become more stylish and elegant than ever. Is there still the hungry fighter? Sadly, I’d say no. As Ando’s bio has become relatively normal and behavior calmer, his architectures started to lose something that his earlier works had used to have. I cannot hear the heartbeat of a fierce fighter from the beautiful mass of concrete any more… or was it just a ghost that I heard when I had my own boiling ambition?

ー世界的な建築家の安藤忠雄氏との思い出に残る出会いー

Continuing from the previous post

Here’s a quiz.

There’s another perfumer who shared the same dream of becoming a concert pianist. Is it Jacques Cavallier, Loc Dong, Thierry Wasser, Olivier Polge or Annick Menardo?

The winner of this quiz will receive AU.WOOD.029 by Laurent Le Guernec. The winner will be announced here (in the comment section) in one week.

Solfège

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Laurent Le Guernec didn’t turn his childhood dream into a career but is still very passionate when he speaks about music and piano. He explains about the importance of studying GC (gas chromatography) at an early stage, “We tend to think learning GC is not important, but it’s like practicing solfège, it’s one of the basics.”

Ahaa I see, it sounds quite boring but seems as important as practicing to throw jabs and one-twos millions of times. In boxing the rule is simple: keep your feet and hands busy, or you ain’t gonna survive.