via Estuaire 2007
The 2007 WPC (I’m not speaking about the World Powerlifting Congress here.) kicked off yesterday in Cannes, France. Despite the fact that nothing is happening here these days (by the way, has anyone seen or heard from Katie lately?), there are more visitors to the blog this week, maybe thanks to Perfumer & Flavorist magazine. For those who are attending the event, there’s not much here for your noses to feast on, but here’s something for your eyes.
This concludes Marina’s Round 5 with mod R5/Q and R5/R.
Do not be troubled by the ominous title of this post. It is all good. I liked one of the last two mods so much, I believe we are now not simply on the right track but actually well on the way along the track towards the happy ending. The mod I am talking about is R5/Q. I suppose I should mention R5/R as well, just so it doesn’t feel completely left out. It is a great leather scent, a little smoky, a little salty. If all I wanted was leather and nothing but leather, it would have been wonderful. But I envision something more for my Holy Grail, with leather certainly being a prominent element, but still just one of many elements.
R5/Q, on the other hand, has the complexity and depth I am looking for. It starts on my skin with a sweet-n-spicy accord, which features a pronounced fruity undertone. Not sparkly-pink fruits, which I hate, but over-ripe, dark, exotic fruits oozing honeyed nectar. This spicy-fruity accord reminds me very much of that in Fendi Asja. In fact, R5/Q’s beginning seems to me to be a little too similar to Asja, and maybe just a tad too fruity for my taste. The middle stage is creamy and vaguely floral; about two thirds into the scent’s development a leather note appears. At first it is a rough, smoky, take-no-prisoners leather, but slowly it begins to soften and turns into the most delicate of calf skins or maybe even suede. Because of the “fruits”, the smell of which is still lingering even at the later stage, the mod at this point reminds me quite a lot of Serge Lutens Daim Blond, which is one of my most favorite scents of all time, but again, I would like a little less similarity. I am sure that if we toned down “the fruits”, the similarity would disappear.
To sum it up, what I want to be done to Holy Grail now is for the “fruits” or whatever it is that I perceive as “fruits” in its top notes to be taken down a notch or two. I also would love for the scent to have a stronger floral accord in its heart. Something languid, exotic and creamy, to compliment the general warm feeling of the composition. Perhaps we could try gardenia? Gardenia and leather…does it not sound wonderful to you? It does to me! As for the leather note, I think it is just perfect as it is now, not too smoky and forceful but not too wimpy either. So – less fruits, much more flowers, no change to the leather, and…we will be done!
Image source, mythinglinks.org, echonews.com
An article in the May issue of Perfumer & Flavorist discusses what it means to be a perfumer today. The article is loaded with revealing quotes from respected figures in the industry like Carlos Benaim, Jean Guichard, Frederic Malle and more. The full article is available for purchase here. Highly recommended for beauty writers and avid consumers of perfumes.
The correct answer of the last week’s quiz is D – The Mother of Contemporary Perfumery. The winners are Octavian and socalsocool. Congratulations. The prize will be a new fragrance by Sophia Grojsman to be released in September.
I strongly believe Sophia’s best of the best is yet to come, and the coming years are going to be really interesting. Go Sophia go !!!
John Lautner, a Frank Lloyd Wright disciple, is probably best know for Chemosphere House, the flying saucer like house that he designed in 1960. It has been a landmark architecture in Los Angeles for nearly half a century. When the decaying house was purchased and restored by well-known German publisher Benedikt Taschen in 2000, I remember Brad Pitt, an architecture buff, visited the house a few times during the restoration. I’m sure Brad Pitt would have wanted to do the same thing that Benedikt Taschen did if he had had the time to focus on such things.
The Goldstein House, another house by Lautner which was originally designed in 1963 for the first owners was later purchased by a billionaire “NBA superfan” James Goldstein in 1989. In keeping with the original design philosophy, Goldstein closely worked with Lautner till the architect’s death in 1994 to renovate and expand the original structure using new technologies which were not available when the original part had been built.
This weekend I discovered that Segel House (1979), a more recent house by John Lautner on the beach of Malibu, was for sale – an astounding thirty three and a half million dollars!
This is a bit of an old story now.
It was supposed to be called “Cologne S”…
True or not, I don’t know, but once heard that the designer and the perfumer were overjoyed about the concept of the scent – Shower After Sex. Unfortunately the real shower-after-sex effect can only be experienced from the juice straight out of the lab, not the one from the factory. During the mature(oil)-macerate(solution)-chill-filter process the elusive “molecule S” seems to fade away. By the time the product reaches the store shelf the shock value is hardly there… at least for most people’s noses.
“S” was supposed to imply semen, shower, and soap. Cologne S… this great name also has evaporated during the maceration process.
Several weeks ago I promised to offer a limited number of samples of fragrance which was born from a collaboration between perfumer Dominique Ropion and photographer Terry Richardson. I apologize for the delay. Let’s say it’s not easy to bring back a fragrance which is no longer in production… but it’s coming. Thanks for your patience!
A few weeks ago I mishandled a subject in my post and decided to delete it with the comments. Among the deleted comments there was one asking about how to become a perfumer. Obviously there is not much information out there…
Well, anyone can become a self-proclaimed perfumer since there’s no rule to be a self-proclaimed perfumer, but being a “major league player” in perfumery means working with one of the legitimate houses that dominates the fragrance market. Most people don’t know how to enter one of these houses as a perfumer or as a future perfumer. Is it part of the secrecy of the industry? Maybe so.
I may post something related to the “how to” topic in the future, but let me tell you why it is so obscure. It’s quite simple – the industry doesn’t need to publicize the “how to” since the openings for new perfumers are extremely limited. Each house (fragrance supplier) has only one to three openings per year, and there are enough sources to recruit great young talents already.
So, where do they look for the potential noses? ISIPCA is the most known place to look for future perfumers, but there are several other places. I’ll tell you more about it some other time…