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Laurent Le Guernec working on a formula…
Laurent read my reviews from his first two mods, and sent back his reply already!
What a review !!!!! I had no idea that these fragrances would trigger such excitement and emotions. I really appreciate that you took the time to live with the fragrances, which shows that you have a lot of respect for what “perfumers” do. And I have a lot of fun reading all the comments on the blog.
After reading your review a couple of times, I just want to make sure that I understand what you are expecting in the reworks. So we are definitely going to start from Auxeos “C”. I’m going to look at what makes “B” more powerful in the back and see if I can borrow some elements from it to give more volume to “C”. If it doesn’t work I will just intensify the elements of “C”. It looks like we are a little shy with you girls;we need to turn the volume up !!!! I just have a quick question: do you think that all the elements you wanted in your fragrance are already in the composition, or is there something that you are missing ?
Thank you for being so passionate,
I dropped him a quick note back…
Oh good lord! Of course I’m excited! For me, this is the equivalent of throwing out the first pitch at a ball game – I’d be a plumb idiot not to be thrilled.
If it is at all possible, I really would love to have some of the warm drydown in “B” incorporated. However, can we also add in the dark gold gleam of frankincense an entirely explicit note? Just for emphasis, I’d like to add a plea to please not lose the little salty lick I liked so much in “C,” which was just lovely.
“It look like we are a little shy with you girls,we need to turn the volume up !!!!” Heh heh. Crank up the amp to 11!
This concludes Marina’s Round 2 with mod R2/D.
My second mod, Holy Grail R2/D has arrived! This is my message to Clement regarding the mod:
I was so thrilled to try my second mod! It started with a spicy explosion of saffron and my heart rejoiced. I do like this version more than Mod No. 1, simply because it is spicier, warmer and more “substantial”, not as ethereal.
For the next mod I was wondering if we could make it even warmer, heavier and more animalic. I know that my proposal said that I want my scent to be spicy, but I was thinking that perhaps we could tone down the spice (which I perceive to be mainly saffron) a little, not so much by reducing the amount of it as by making the other notes stronger. As it is, to my nose and on my skin,” saffron” overwhelms everything else. I do smell a little musk and some amber in the drydown, but apart from that the scent seems rather linear, like a saffron “soliflore”. (If you are familiar with Safram by Laura Tonatto, this is how Mod 2 smells to my nose.)
I would absolutely love the scent to have more woods, particularly sandalwood. And I would be so happy if the musk was made much, much stronger. I also want this musk to be very obviously “dirty”. No clean musk for me, please. I don’t know if you had a chance to read the comments made by our readers about the first mod…One of my wonderful fellow bloggers, March, came up with an idea of Marina’s Skank-o-Meter. On a scale of 1 to 10, where Clair de Musc by Serge Lutens is 1 and Muscs Koublai Khan is a perfect 10, I would like my Holy Grail to be 8,5 or maybe even 9. Please don’t hold back and don’t be afraid to scare me off with animalic notes. I love my scents to be dark and dirty.
I also wanted to note that some of the people who received the 2nd mod told me that they smelled a leather note there. I was a little upset that there seemed to be no leather on my skin. However, after a couple of more tries, I did actually start to smell leather, albeit faintly, in the very late drydown. I would love for that note to be much stronger! Paired with the dirty kind of musk I have in mind, spiced up by some saffron and cardamom, softened by the velvety sandalwood and perhaps some vanilla…oh my!
To sum it all up and hopefully to amuse you, here are my impressions and wishes:
This is how Mod R2/D smells right now- bright, thrilling, but essentially insubstantial:
This is how I would like it to smell- warm, sensual, generous, inviting, like a fire burning in the darkness of the night:
I also want it to be “dirty” and not at all innocent. I would go as far as to say that I want it to smell “dangerous”, perhaps even a little sinister…Like this:
Franz von Stuck, Sin
Thank you very much again! I am looking forward to hearing from you and to the next mod!
The images are from art.com.
The samples of R2/D are now available in the online shop.
Just a quick note to announce that the Round 1 trial sets are sold out. Round 2: Holy Grail R2/D samples are, however,
now available to purchase in the online shop. As with Round 1 samples and all the future ones to come, the supplies are very limited and the samples are sold on a first come, first served basis.
A set of the three trial fragrances from Round 1, which includes Holy Grail R1/A and Auxeos R1/B and R1/C, is
now available for purchase via the online store. Each sample in the set comes in a 3.5ml plastic spray vial. Please note that the availability of these samples is quite limited, and will be sold on a first come, first served basis only. Thank you so much for your support!
This concludes Katie’s Round 1 with sketches R1/B and R1/C.
The following is the message I passed on to Laurent with my perceptions of both mods he created:
I want to start by saying that no offense or anything like that was meant by my slowness in getting back to you about the two mods. It was clear that you put a ton of effort and consideration into them, and I wanted to respond to your thoughtfulness by making sure I lived with them for a while, let them walk around inside my head, before I gathered up my thoughts. They are both so well done, well plotted, and deserved some old-fashioned contemplation.
When I was, like, five or six I had a part in the children’s Christmas play at my mom’s church. I was “Y for Yulelog.” I got so overwhelmed by my own rushed excitement that I biffed the line, and in embarassment pulled my skirt over my head. Apparently my little self thought that was less humiliating than showing my red face. “Y for Yulelog” was delivered by a little girl with her skirt worn skyward and her Wonder Woman underpants on display for the whole congregation to see. So in short, I’m pretty much hoping to avoid showing off my underpants to you and all the Made by Blog readers on this project.
Auxeos “B” ~
No one could accuse this fragrance of being a wallflower; it’s quite forward in personality. “B” plays its tune so fortissimo right from the get-go, with a sudden whoosh of sound. The herbally green twang to it is striking. There’s some kind of dueling banjos between the green and the leathery intonations. But it smells so sticky to me. Does “sticky” have a smell? Oh nevermind, don’t answer that. Maybe just humor me for the moment and pretend it does. The sticky seems to be less pronounced on men’s skin than on women’s, though I could swear on paper it smells sticky, too. This is not a criticism of any sort. The green is nifty, but not the direction I hope Auxeos moves towards. I wonder if it would not be too loud for most folks to cotton to.
I sooooooo love the drydown. Or rather, to bastardize that famous line in Annie Hall, love is too weak a word – I lurve it, I loave it, I luff it. Good lord, is it ever so warm and inviting. It’s the equivalent of yanking up the quilts over your shoulders on a chilly winter morning. It’s got a little sweetness, but not too sweet: my inner Goldilocks says to herself, “just right.” The way the incensey bit and some sort of spiced brown warmth starts to rise from the ashes of the fading green-tinged leather is most enjoyable.
“B” starts loud, and winds up being, well, not exactly quiet… but not so ferocious either. The dry down is pure lurve.
Auxeos “C” ~
Flowers on a salt lick! The brisk beach twilight! Brittle incense! These were the aspects of “C” I liked the best. Thematically, I found “C” more enjoyable than “B” in a way. The emphasis is stronger on woodsy but neatly arranged incense rather than leather here? I do like the general crustiness of the incensey bit in “C.” I also really enjoyed the way the scent wore on skin. Fireworks are on the brain right now, so forgive the weak comparison: it seems like here one aspect pops and lights, and as it dims another pops and lights. I dig the way it pings off chunks of time like that. The leather is there, but when I’m not trying to concentrate on it, I’d say it forms a function of the incense rather than a force unto itself. Which, is cool I guess, because that does seem to pony up well to those encrusted flowers and incense. It’s funny, I wouldn’t necessarily describe “C” as a salty scent per se, but that aspect is totally present and it’s awesome. The way it lifts and blows the incensey part along, almost as if you could snap it in half, would sound like the the crunch of wind-strewn autumn leaves.
There’s this teeny weeny moment at the top where I sense a note a bit like a gas-stained rag? It’s not exactly that, but it’s the verbal approximation to what I smell. Is it weird that I kind of like that? I mean, if it were strong I wouldn’t, but it’s such a fleeting little moment, and its brief appearance fits nicely into the overall scheme of things.
As the top fades, the sensastion of strolling past climbing roses and inhaling their aroma becomes apparent, and I have to admit I’m a bit “meh” over this note. It sure is pretty, though. Then, what I can only parlay into words as creaminess also shifts into veiw. It’s so subtle. Yet not so subtle as to go unappreciated. The incense seems to briefly peel back to show off the smell of hiking a trail in wild summer bloom. Yet I also sense a clean but brackish breeze sweeping in from the tide. Perhaps this breeze is the leather-type suede note? It’s dusky but not astringent or tannic. The softened shady tones of “C” allusively reminds me of a snapshot I took a while back…
“C” stands out as more leathery to me after the scent develops far past the first phases. Interesting. Can this lap further onto the fragrance to deepen it? The curving edge it creates is lovely. Or would deepening this note cause the balance to become wobbly?
Ultimately, I like both mods for different reasons, and I’d like something even fuller that would be less brash than “B,” but more expansive than “C.” I lean towards “C” more than “B” generally, but that’s not quite an accurate explanation of my reaction. You know how there’s a certain circularity of composition to Bal a Versailles? But there’s something else in it I specifically relish. That fragrance keeps rising and growing like an improbable crescendo, a wave doomed to self-destruct… only it doesn’t. The Jane’s Addiction song “Ocean Size” goes, “Wish I was ocean size/ No one moves you, man/ No one tries […] I was made with a heart of stone/ To be broken/ With one hard blow/ I’ve seen the ocean/ Break on the shore/ Come together/ With no harm done.” Can a version of Auxeos “C” be rendered ocean size? Can it be even “more?” More what I can’t precisely say. Just “more.” Maybe drier, more brittle, and more woodsy, too… Or maybe my nose behaves too greedily for its own good, heh.
It took me a wee bit to get over the shock of smelling real physical manifestations of that which I’d only pondered in imagination. There’s this part in Dickens’ David Copperfield where the young title character initially sucks in the tidy luxury of his new home, wanting to take note of it all and commit his feeling to memory. “As I laid down my pen, a moment since, to think of it, the air from the sea came blowing in again, mixed with the perfume of the flowers; and I saw the old-fashioned furniture brightly rubbed and polished, my aunt’s inviolable chair and table by the round green fan in the bow-window, the drugget-covered carpet, the cat, the kettle-holder, the two canaries, the old china, the punch-bowl full of dried rose-leaves, the tall press guarding all sorts of bottles and pots, and, wonderfully out of keeping with the rest, my dusty self upon the sofa, taking note of everything.” That’s how I felt. My boring and Plain Jane self wanted to take note of it all, to hoard the sudden and momentary novelty. And I thank you very much for that.
I am guessing that all of you may find the list of notes forwarded to me interesting? Here’s the notes for both mods:
AUXEOS, or the “B” Mod ~
BERGAMOTE, NEROLI PETALES, ELEMI GUM, SPEARMINT
VETIVER, AQUATIC LEATHER,AMBER,MYRRH AND SANDALWOOD
AUXETIC, or “C” Mod ~
MANDARIN,PIMENTO BERRIES,BRAZILIAN MATE
FREESIA, ROSE CENTIFOLIA,PATCHOULY
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Happy Birthday America!
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As World Cup heats up, perfumers at IFF get out of their offices and labs more often.
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Quiz: Whose desk is it?