WWDIS Blog - Page 89

Vogue(ロシア版)/ 注目の若手香水調香師達

I don’t know what is written there, but a recent article in Vogue Russia about young perfumers seems to prove that fragrance consumers in Russia are serious enough to care about the creators of the scents hidden behind those fancy bottles.

There is another thing that caught my eyes in the article. I’m not sure if sharing Eurasia right next to many Asian countries has given them a different perspective in perfumery, but I find the article pretty cool to include two (one and a half to be precise) Asian perfumers.

I’ve never seen so many perfumers, especially the young ones, featured in an article on a major magazine and want to congratulate Vogue Russia, ヴォーグ ロシア 万歳!

*****

この数年間、使命感のような気持ちを持って半ば無意識に行ってきている事は、若手の香水調香師の存在をアピールすること。まだ日本では知られていませんが、欧米では若手スターとして注目されている調香師クリストフ・ロダミエル(Christophe Laudamiel)も、私のプロジェクトに関わったことが、キャリアの上で大きな転機となったということをいつも語ってくれるのは嬉しいことです。

今回ヴォーグ ロシア版最新号では、今後注目すべき若手香水調香師の特集にあたり、それに相応しい調香師を選ぶことと彼等達との連絡を取り持つことを手伝わせて頂きました。そもそもこのブログを始めるきっかけとなったメイドバイブログ プロジェクトに参加してくれた、クレモン・ギャバリー(Clement Gavarry)とロホン・ルゲルネック(Laurent Le Guernec)は勿論のこと、何と言っても嬉しいのは、ロク・ドング(Loc Dong)とセシール・クラコワ(Cecile Krakower/セシールはハーフ)という二人のアジア系の香水調香師を紹介できたことです。

このような記事で、日本人の香水調香師が取り上げられるようになるのも、もうすぐの事ではないでしょうか。楽しみです。

Get RAD! It’s Terry again, not Thierry.

今回は、『ティエリー』ワッサーではなく、『テリー』リチャードソンのお話。

世界の三大香料企業であるジボダン、IFF、フィルメニッヒは、最も才能のある若手の調香師達を揃えているわけですが、彼等は今ひとつ開拓精神に欠ける印象が受けます。技量と知識に関しては申し分の無い連中ばかりなので、もっと思い切った冒険をしてくれると、香水の世界がずっとエキサイティングになると常日頃思ってるのですが…..

下の三つのビデオの中で、写真界の鬼才テリー・リチャードソンが良い事を言っています。特に三つ目のビデオは、若手調香師達に発破をかけるつもりで掲載しました。詰まる所は、自分の方法論を信じ諦めずにそれを突き進めれば、最初は突拍子もないような事であっても、いつしか周りもそれを認めてくれるようになるということです。

*****

I posted about a campaign called “Luxury Reborn” by Belvedere Vodka (LVMH Group) in February, and the PR for them seems to know that I can’t get enough of Terry Richardson. So here we go…

Terry Richardson is saying some good things in these three short films which have been added to Belvedere’s website recently. Especially in the third film where he speaks about the style of his photography, there is something that many perfumers can learn from if they want to be ‘contemporary’ perfumers. Skill and knowledge come first of course, but moving beyond these ‘basics’ in a radical manner (like the great Sophia Grojsman has done long ago) is what I would like to expect from the younger generation of perfumers today.


“Terry Richardson on Connecting with People”
 


“Terry Richardson on Luxury and Taste”
 


“Terry Richardson on the Snapshot”
 

調香師ティエリー・ワッサー香りのコフレ/Thierry Wasser’s coffret

調香師ティエリー・ワッサー(Thierry Wasser)のゲラン(Guerlain)専属調香師への就任が、予想以上に早く発表されました。楽しみです。これを記念し、今までにティエリー・ワッサーが、私のアートプロジェクトの為に手がけたいくつかの香りをセットにした、香水コフレでも作ろうかと考えています。佐賀町エキジビットスペースに於いて、ふんだんに散布したシュガーマウンテンはもちろんのこと、「恐怖の壁」という名前の香りやら、男前な彼の自画像として創らせた香りなど一風変わったものばかりですが、私が何故ティエリー・ワッサーの才能を確信したかということが充分に理解できるものばかりだと思います。御関心のある方は、japanあっとs-perfumeどっとこむまで、メールでお問い合わせください。

(ピンぼけしていますが、懐かしい写真です。5、6年前でしょうか… ティエリー・ワッサーが、まだニューヨークにいた頃のものです。)

Nobuyoshi Araki @Jablonka Gallery, Berlin

アラーキーこと荒木経惟の、ベルリンでの展覧会の模様を撮ったフィルム。会場には、モノクロの「緊縛」シリーズからの100点が展示された。昔から思うのだが、写真家というのには二つタイプがあって、えらく匂いがしてきそうな写真を撮る写真家と、無臭性の写真をとるタイプに分かれるような気がする。荒木経惟の場合は前者で、日本という国のある一面の体臭みたいなものを非常にうまく捉える写真家だと、常々関心させられる。ちょうど、日本社会の雌しべの部分をヘッドスペース分析 (Headspace analysis) して、写真で再表現したような…

Swarovski Crystal Palace in Milan

ちょっと、スワロフスキーで息抜き。最近、粋なイメージになって蘇ったブランドのひとつですが、2010年に香水を発表する時も、是非素敵な事をやって欲しいですね。

Perfumers(調香師の仲間達)

私の様々なプロジェクトに参画してくれた香水調香師達(ファインフレグランス パフューマー)の中で、特にお気に入りの6人の調香師達それぞれについて、個人的な感想を求められたことがありました。今日ちょうど2年振りにその記事を目にしたので、改めて読み返してみたところ、割と的を射たことを言っているなと、ひとりで笑ってしまいました。英語ですが、辞書を使ったりオンラインの機械翻訳を使って読んでみてください。世界を舞台にして香水を作っていきたいという方。。。これからまだ暫くは、本場の香水業界の仕事に関わる為には、英語とフランス語が中心に物事が進んでいく環境に身を投じなければならない、という事は覚悟しておいた方が良いでしょう。

*****

Exactly two years ago, I was asked by someone to describe each perfumer I had worked with. Have my views changed in two years? Not really.

ソフィア・グロスマン/Sophia Grojsman – There are so many things that I want to say about her. The article on Sophia in the popular perfume blog Bois de Jasmin describes the perfumer very well. In short, Sophia is a very warm person, a dynamo, and an absolute genius!

アルベルト・モリヤス/Alberto Morillas – Had I only known his creations on the market, I wouldn’t have asked him to create scents for me. I was simply drawn into his personal creations and ideas that didn’t end up on the market. What makes him unique is having a very strong style of his own and being versatile at the same time. He is wild at heart, fun to be with, workerholic, and he really loves women. I think we have a perfect recipe to be a great perfumer here.

クリストフ・ロダミエル/Christophe Laudamiel – 4 years ago (so, it’s 6 years ago.), when I first heard about a young talented perfumer with “a red Mohican,” I knew he was meant for my projects. There is a charismatic woman like Sophia in the industry, but most others look too conservative and uptight. After all it’s a luxury business, and I want to see more colorful guys like Christophe in the industry. However, that’s not the most important thing about him. The most striking thing about Christophe is his extremely innovative ideas – he is a scientist and an artist at the same time.

アニック・メナルド/Annick Menardo – As Luca Turin believes, this is another genius. She is extremely intelligent, but a bit difficult. I am madly in love with her creations, especially the one that didn’t end up on the maket called “MADONNE.” I don’t understand why no one has taken it.

ティエリー・ワッサー/Thierry Wasser – An international man of mystery… a great guy with so much talent, but so elusive to the point it’s too difficult to describe him. He is handsome and stylish, but that has nothing to do with his talent. I worked with Thierry most frequently since he understood my ideas very quickly. He is a very artistic person himself in a way classical musicians are. His powerful perfumery balanced very well with the style of my art.

ロク・ドング/Loc Dong – Loc is another ‘different kind’ among the young perfumers today. He is ambitious [good], doesn’t think he is an artist [interesting], Asian [Yes!], and might be a genius [we'll see]. Loc still doesn’t have many solo creation under his belt, but his unique style is getting a lot of attention in the industry. I would say he will be the first Asian perfumer to be as prominent as Cavallier and Morillas in the future.

I was also asked to assign each perfumer a single perfume note that I felt best represented their personalities. I thought it was kind of a boring question and decided to give each perfumer a theme or a mission.

ソフィア・グロスマン/Sophia Grosjman: Essence of women, or Mother

アルベルト・モリヤス/Alberto Morillas: Scent for an elegant and wealthy European woman who spends time in New York City during the weekends

クリストフ・ロダミエル/Christophe Laudamiel: A Night at the Opera

アニック・メナルド/Annick Menardo: The Virgin

ティエリー・ワッサー/Thierry Wasser: He would be perfect to revamp a brand like Guerlain. (I first said this more than five years ago.)

ロク・ドング/Loc Dong: n/a (I didn’t assign him a theme since I was working on a project with him at that time.)

(By the way, LVMH/Guerlain will announce their new perfumer early next month.)

John Burnham Schwartz

In summer of 1987, I met a handsome Harvard student in Tokyo. He was staying in Japan during the summer break. I don’t remember why he wanted to visit Japan but clearly do remember what he wanted to become. He was still twenty-one or so and was in his undergraduate years. When I asked if he wanted to become a lawyer like his father, he simply replied, “No, I want to be an author.” It sounded naive, but his eyes looked determined.

We didn’t stay in touch after he had returned to the States, but I had remembered those eyes and his name ‘John B. Schwartz’ for years. About ten years ago, when I introduced myself to a woman at a friend’s party in Brooklyn, she immediately recognized that I was Japanese because of the book she had read. The story took place in Japan, and she told me that one of the characters in that book had the same name (Nobi) as mine. A few days later, when I got a copy of the book, I was grinning and laughing.

Last night we had a dinner with Ron Winnegrad (The head of IFF perfumery school) and his wife Robin. Ron has quite an interesting personal background – his father was a manager for known prize fighters, and he was babysat by them as a child. His looks and his way of thinking seem to belong to an artist rather than someone who runs a very exclusive and successful perfumery school, and of course that is why I always enjoy seeing him. I am always interested in hearing about the young and talented future perfumers. This time Ron told me about a young student from Brazil whose story reminded me of John B. Schwartz, which made me think that a real determination often appears in a very innocent manner.

Becoming a perfumer for known houses could be more difficult than becoming a successful author, but you will get there if you are disciplined and determined enough.

*****

本当の香水調香師になることは、作家として成功することよりも困難なことかもしれません。しかし、強い決心と集中力があれば、日本人であっても世界の檜舞台で活躍する道は開けてきます。